Contest!! Volvo Blog Post!

All Volvolution contests get posted here. Check it out! You can win $$.

Moderators: macs&volvos, admin

What blog post was the best?

Poll ended at Thu Jun 25, 2009 1:43 pm

macs&volvos: HOW TO: Replace Front (Passenger) Engine Mount
0
No votes
macs&volvos: HOW TO: Check Engine (A2) codes on an OBD1 car.
1
4%
macs&volvos: HOW TO: Do a Compression Test.
0
No votes
Macs&Volvos: HOW TO: Replace Front Struts on a FWD Volvo.
1
4%
GeraldJ: Garrett turbo on an 850 white block
0
No votes
TIPSP: How to make Poly Bushings
2
8%
TIPSP: My 745T Mods
0
No votes
TIPSP: Custom CAI
0
No votes
Pegasusv70r: Too Spool or Not to Spool
1
4%
JKS2: Cars and Clay, Not Just for Modeling
0
No votes
Sinyckel: For the last ten years I have owned several Volvo 240's
0
No votes
Somthngfrce: Leather Care
0
No votes
Russian R: Russian R Exists:
4
17%
MikeSr: Does not qualify, not 200 words.
0
No votes
Bigguy : Does not qualify, not 200 words.
0
No votes
jfr121: It is always a good thing when another Volvo blog shows up!
0
No votes
DoctorJay: Typecasting the Beater Brick
1
4%
eyeballumbrella: Volvo for Life, Volvo for Love
10
42%
DoctorJay: Where Do You Put Your Double-Latte, You Freak?
4
17%
 
Total votes : 24

Contest!! Volvo Blog Post!

Postby admin » Sat Jun 13, 2009 11:40 pm

CONTEST CLOSED! Time To Vote!

Hey guys!

FCP Groton has informed me that they would like to run a contest. This contest will be a 10 day contest to produce a blog post with a word count of 200 or more. This blog post can be about your Volvo in general, a specific Volvo model, history of Volvo, Volvo news, Volvo humor, what you have done / modifications to your Volvo, anything and everything Volvo related etc.

Notice!

FCP Groton has raised the stakes!

Now there will be 3 winners to this contest!

1st Place ---- $200 customer credit!

2nd Place --- $50 customer credit!
3rd Place ---- $25 customer credit!

FCP Groton will still retain all rights to use the post(s) in their blog, and of course the authors will be credited for their work.

Thank you!

---
Due date is Wednesday June 24th!

At the end of the contest, we will post a poll and let all the users vote on who's blog post was the best.

Submit your blog my clicking 'POSTREPLY' below and adding it to this thread!

PS: If you are having trouble thinking about what to write about, check out http://myblackbrick.com/ which will give you a general idea of what a proper blog post should involve.



Game on!
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Re: Contest!! Volvo Blog Post!

Postby macs&volvos » Sun Jun 14, 2009 10:45 pm

I wanted to summit my How To's to the contest for best post. The links to the How To's are listed below.

HOW TO: Replace Front (Passenger) Engine Mount

HOW TO: Check Engine (A2) codes on an OBD1 car.

HOW TO: Do a Compression Test.
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Re: Contest!! Volvo Blog Post!

Postby GeraldJ » Mon Jun 15, 2009 12:26 pm

I'd like to place this little post in the running for the $50

Garrett turbo on an 850 white block
by GeraldJ » Thu Jun 11, 2009 6:20 pm

Well I thought I would jump in with the frist build post here.

I started with a stock 140,000 mile 855 turbo, pewter with tan leather, and the autotragic. Fun for a while but didnt excite me much. I upgraded to a SpeedTuning stage 2 17psi tune. Woke the car up but from a tuning aspect made it run pig rich under boost. I thought more air could help this right? So on to the 19t. When I did this I went ahead and found an 260r manifold to go along with it, as well as a 4bar rising rate FPR. This lasted about 6 weeks before the tranny started to act up.

I was looking over the for sale post on VS and found that a member was selling a tuned ecu and injectors for a garrett turbo setup. I emailed the member back and forth for about a month. Asked a million questions and got a million and 1 answers. Jan (JCViggen on VS) was extremly helpful with finding parts and answering questions. Shipping of my new ecu and injectors took about 9 days.

I sourced a 50trim garrett turbo from an Ebay seller. They were very helpful. I told them exactly what I wanted and they told me the exact price. I had my new turbo with in 10 day.

Next thing to do was to find all the parts and pieces to make it all fit. The biggest problem as the fact that the euro ECU was for a 5 speed. So a swap was in order, this is for another post....

To put a t3 sized turbine housing onto a whiteblock motor only 1 thing is needed to bolt it on. You can do it 2 different ways. i like mine the best. First and easiest would be to buy the adapter from ATP turbo. I didnt like this as it still uses the m8 size holes and studs to hold the turbo to the manifold. The better way is to have the flange machined flat and to have the studs and holes replaced with m10 size retainers. Then all you need is a t3 turbine gasket. Before you just bolt it on you will notice that the hole on the gasket is squared and the hole on the manifold is round. You muct bolt the gasket to the manifold and grind the excess material away. Over time the excess gasket can break off the gasket and go through the turbine.

Next You will have to source some banjo fittings and bolts with 3/8 hose barbs. I found the at the Parker Hose store. I also bought 1 foot of high temp silicone 3/8 hose for the water feed line. The stock hard line was almost a perfect fit. I cut the stock banjo fitting off of the hard line and just used a small piece of the high temp hose slipped over the hard line and onto the banjo that bolted to the new Garrett. On the other end the stock fitting was the same way with a small section of hose to retain the 2 hard lines together.

Next is the water return. The banjo fittings for the water lines have a 3/8 hose barb and the hose barb on the block is a 5/8 barb. I solved this by putting a short piece of high temp hose on the barb, just enough to cover the barb. Then use a piece of 5/8 hose to go over the 3/8 and turbo hose barb. Plumb it to the stock location and your set.

Oil feed line is just as easy. Find a m14 banjo fitting and bolt with a -4 male fitting. 30” of -4 line, stainless braid or high temp, mine is the high temp ‘tuff cover’ from parker. On the hose you will need to have a 90* -4 female on both ends. For the inlet to the turbo just buy a t3 oil feed flange with a -4 male fitting, ebay is a good source. From there the m14 banjo with the -4 male on it goes to the stock oil feed location. The t3 oil feed flange goes on top of the turbo and the hose in the middle.

Oil return is the trickiest. There are several ways of doing this, but I will tell you what I did. Look on ebay for a t3 oil return flange with a ½” npt outlet. Then at the local hardware store get a 90* ½” npt elbow with a 5/8” hose barb. Take the stock oil return line and place it in the block. Make a mark where the hose barb from the oil return and the stock line are the closest. Remove the stock line and cut it square at your mark. Then take a short piece of hi-temp silicone 5/8” hose to make the connection. I used a bit of a long piece of hose, and used some fresh oil to slide the hose onto the stock oil return as much as possible. I used 2 hose clamps and hoped for the best. I did have an oil leak at first but I solved that by sliding the stock line out of the hose a little more to create more pressure on the seal. Then a little high temp silicone gasket maker around the inlet of the return sealed it up.

For boost control I opted for an external gate. You can also use the ATP UIWG if you want that factory look. To do the external without cutting the s60r manifold you have to find or have made a downpipe flange with divorced holes. One is for the down pipe and the other for the wastegate. On this flange I built my own downpipe out of 3” stainless and a flex joint. Welded in enough bungs for sensors and wrapped it in exhaust wrap. For the wastegate you can have it come off of the flange at any angle. I used a 180* 1.5” mandrel bend from summit racing. I cut out a 90* bend from this and cut the legs to length. This made the wastegate sit straight up and down. So now when you open the hood people look at the huge BOV or the polished wastegate first. From here you can plumb the gate back into the exhaust or make a dump tube. I chose the dump tube. Using the left over 1.5” 90* bend and the long section of leg I made a dump tube that goes from the gate to the ground. Pretty much a straight shot. This gives me pretty good reactions under full boost. During normal driving you would never know the difference. The gate does not even crack open till 9-12psi, and I am running 16 for now ( the tune is good for 20). I am working on a water to air intercooler to cool the charge air a little better where I can turn the pressure up.

From there the turbo is pretty much on and ready. The stock charge pipe will bolt on but I recommend a fmic or some sort of better than stock cooling.

For the intake on my turbo I just made my own intake pipe from some 3 inch exhaust pipe I had laying around. All it took was a 90* bend and a couple silicone couplers. Dremeled out the hole for the PTC, that took the longest. On the end is just the MAF and a K&N.

I know I am leaving out a few things and pics but I didn’t take much time to take pics during this build. I was pretty much on my own and did most all work by myself. I did pull the motor for this but not for this reason alone. I also did the 5 speed swap at the same time and RMS. For me doing it alone it was easier to just pull the motor.

Any questions you might have I can probably answer. I have ran into a lot of problems during this and can probably help you out if you are trying to do something like this.
1996 855, 5 speed, 50 trim Garrett, 300+whp

1982 242 GLT, 4 speed OD, Stock NA for now, 500hp redblock build coming.
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Re: Contest!! Volvo Blog Post!

Postby FCPGroton » Mon Jun 15, 2009 12:39 pm

Wow. Some really good stuff here! We appreciate the entries so far, and hope that we can make a weekly or bi-weekly contest. We can do best Volvo blog post,best picture of Volvo, best Volvo Video!

Also, (with your consent) we would like to feature your posts on FCP's blog. Of course, we will give the blog writer his credits!
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Re: Contest!! Volvo Blog Post!

Postby macs&volvos » Mon Jun 15, 2009 2:04 pm

fcpgroton wrote:Wow. Some really good stuff here! We appreciate the entries so far, and hope that we can make a weekly or bi-weekly contest. We can do best Volvo blog post,best picture of Volvo, best Volvo Video!

Also, (with your consent) we would like to feature your posts on FCP's blog. Of course, we will give the blog writer his credits!


I would be ok with you using my write ups or posts on your blog.
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2004 Volvo S60R in Passion Red!

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1994 855 T5 : 1991 944 Turbo : 1998 XC70 : 1985 244
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Re: Contest!! Volvo Blog Post!

Postby TIPSP » Mon Jun 15, 2009 5:42 pm

Here is a few things I did:

How to make Poly Bushings 56k might be ok.
This is my writeup on bushings over at volvoforums.com

My 745T Mods Lots of images.
This is my project thread over at volvoforums.com

Custom CAI 56k might be ok.
This is my writeup on my Custom CAI over are volvoforums.com
91 745T: Modified.
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Re: Contest!! Volvo Blog Post!

Postby macs&volvos » Mon Jun 15, 2009 5:49 pm

TIPSP wrote:Here is a few things I did:

How to make Poly Bushings

My 745T Mods

Custom CAI


Nice write ups. Do you mind if I link to these in the RWD section?
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2004 Volvo S60R in Passion Red!

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1994 855 T5 : 1991 944 Turbo : 1998 XC70 : 1985 244
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Re: Contest!! Volvo Blog Post!

Postby TIPSP » Mon Jun 15, 2009 5:51 pm

macs&volvos wrote:
Nice write ups. Do you mind if I link to these in the RWD section?


Thanks....

Sure! Go for it :D
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Re: Contest!! Volvo Blog Post!

Postby macs&volvos » Mon Jun 15, 2009 10:42 pm

I just did another how to write up. i would like it also to be considered for the contest. The link to it is below.

HOW TO: Replace Front Struts on a FWD Volvo.
Macs&Volvos

Current Volvo:
2004 Volvo S60R in Passion Red!

Old Volvos:
1994 855 T5 : 1991 944 Turbo : 1998 XC70 : 1985 244
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Re: Contest!! Volvo Blog Post!

Postby pegasusv70r » Tue Jun 16, 2009 5:14 pm

“Too Spool or Not to Spool”

You get your car all done up (in your mind at least), from the wheel selection, color, appeal, even the tires. But,
As most of us already know when it comes to car guys and their cars, there is only one important attribute that
Stands high above the rest…..Horsepower! But how do we make it? What do we use? This is probably one of
The most debated questions most car guys get into scuffles over. What is the best way to make power?

Now, what are my options? Well it depends on many factors. Who you ask? Who is driving? HOW you drive?

Naturally Aspirated : “No replacement for displacement” We have all heard it before, but is it true? Most of the
Hot Rodders would say definitely. And who’s to argue most older American muscle guys would prefer keeping a
Engine N/A just because if you can buy direct an engine that will put down 620 HP’s, who needs a turbo? Granted
A V8 has its advantages, but I believe it has some disadvantages. These engines are very centered to drag racing.
Making a majority of their power in a short power band, usually before 5500 RPM. Although they optimize their
Torque capabilities, still leaves something to be desired for a driver who needs an engine to provide power and
perform in a Broader range say in track racing.

Superchargers : Nothing can be as intimidating to a driver then the very noticeable whine overheard when a
Supercharged vehicle pulls up. A very common power adder, superchargers are belt driven air compressors that
Force air into the combustion chambers and provide more power on a pedal on/pedal off basis. Which is great
For those who need the extra power on demand, but consider the stress and wear on your engine. Think of it
As your engine being forced to breath harder not gradually like a turbo but instantaneously. Creating what is
Called boost pressure as you apply pressure on the gas pedal. Adding a supercharger would be great way to
Make power, but always think of the cost. Also an application that would make more sense for a drag racer and
Smaller four cylinder track engines in compacts that would make them more efficient on a track where larger
Displacement cars run.

Nitrous Oxide : Power in a bottle. NOS is a quick, cheap, and probably the easiest way to have power on tap.
What it does is introduce denser air into the combustion chamber, which in turn creates a better charge in the
Cylinders instantly creating horsepower. Which is great for the driver who needs power at the flip of a switch,
But like all options still has its cons. Bottle’s of nitrous have to be constantly refilled and most amateurs tend to
Use NOS very lavishly over spraying their engine. Thinking if all you need to do is swap jets(usually just a five
Minute swap) to get more horsepower, then why not see what you can get out of it. Common way to blow an
Engine.


Turbocharger : Basically an Exhaust gas operated supercharger, exhaust gas expelled from the engine is used to
Propel a turbine similar to a supercharger creating boost. Probably the most efficient power adder, but also can
Be the most complex. Matching a turbo to a vehicle and driving style can be very tedious, especially with the wide
Array of turbo sizing and budget. Also, there is a lot more that needs to be done to an engine to safely run a turbo.

All in all it comes down to what kind of driving you will be doing and what you are looking to get out of your car. I
Personally am a N/A kind of guy. I would rather build a motor around a specific goal, keeping the car as light as
Possible while still optimizing the amount horsepower available in that motor. That way I can have useable power
At all times and when I need it. But hey, that’s just me.
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